How Sweet This City Is

Thursday, April 14, 2016

Not going to lie... It was awesome waking up this morning to a view of Copacabana Beach.  All my nights on the road for work scored us a pretty sweet upgrade and ocean view room!

Being huge sports fans, we wanted to make sure we had a chance to visit Maracanã Stadium.  Even though it's currently closed in preparation for the Olympic Games, it was still quite impressive from the outside.  When it originally opened in 1950, it held nearly 200,000 people and was the world's highest capacity fútbol venue.  Capacity has now been reduced due to safety concerns, but it's the only stadium to have hosted two World Cup Finals, the first in 1950 and then again in 2014.  It will also be the site of the opening and closing ceremonies for the 2016 Olympic Games, as well as, the Men's and Women's Olympic soccer finals.

We wandered around the Centro neighborhood during lunchtime, which gave us an opportunity to see all the locals out and about and then we decided to test out Rio's subway.  We were surprised by how clean and easy it was to navigate.  We strolled through Urca, a residential neighborhood at the foot of Sugarloaf mountain, where fishing boats dot the bay with a backdrop of Christ the Redeemer looking down over the city.  The area reminded us of a mix between Trastevere, where we lived in Rome, and some of the residential streets on the sound end of South Beach Miami.  We popped into a grocery store looking for water and ended up picking up a few things for a picnic lunch by the beach.  I also surveyed the Dannon yogurt and we told the grocery store employees I worked for Dannon in the States... they thought that was really cool, lol. 

We headed over to Sugarloaf with about an hour and half until sunset.  As we rode the cable car to the first stop on Morro da Urca, the city spread out below us.  After taking a ton of pictures, we rode the second cable car up to the top of Sugarloaf... OH. MY. GOODNESS.  The views were unbelievable... breathtaking.  I could go on and on with adjectives.  The sun was setting behind the mountains and Christ the Redeemer and the entire sky was lit up a bright orange.  It was one of the most beautiful sites we've both ever laid eyes on.  Luckily we're in the age of digital because I literally took about four hundred pictures even though it was almost the exact same shot... I just kept snapping.  I couldn't get enough of what we were seeing.  The pictures give you an idea, but this is one of those things you need to see with your own eyes to appreciate.  We sat on a bench staring at the view as we watched twilight turn to dark and the city light up below us.  Even though the view wasn't changing, I didn't want to take my eyes off of it... but finally we made the trek back down and headed to our hotel.  

There is no time like the present to experience Rio's cutting-edge nightlife... We tried Stuzzi, a laid-back Italian tapas lounge on Leblon's Rua Dias Ferreira, which has become a must visit street for foodies visiting Rio.  The food was delicious, as were the cocktails.  Our meal was interrupted by two older gentlemen that approached the table and started talking to us under the premises that they recognized us and thought we were someone else.  Nice try señors... If anyone asks, we now have boyfriends.  Who approaches someone's table to try to pick them up while they are in the middle of dinner?!??  

After a quick bite, a couple of cocktails and a Red Bull... we headed to Bagatelle.  Yes, Rio now has their own version of this popular spot from the same owners of the Bagatelle in New York and Miami.  It's located in the jockey club on Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas in a beautiful old building.  We walked into a room with the beats pumping and Brazilians dancing on tables and banquettes.  Guess some things are the same no matter where you are in the world  :)  We had a blast!  

Feel The Burn

Wednesday, April 13, 2016

Sooooo, we're burnt.  Like really burnt... Aka, it looks like we both laid on a grill.  Too much fun in the sun yesterday :)  Good thing the plan for today includes some time in the shade.  While most visitors take a taxi boat to the island's most popular beach destination, Lopes Mendes, we're going to attempt the two and a half hour hike to get there instead.

After picking up some SPF 70 and lathering up, off we went.  Now we're earning back some calories.  With the temperature registering in the mid-90s and the humidity above 80%, we both looked like we had just gotten out of the shower about ten minutes in.  The trail wound up and over the mountain peaks through the thick of the jungle and our legs were burning from the steep inclines.  But thankfully the canopy of the trees provided shade most of the way.  

About an hour and a half in, we arrived at Palmas, a nearly deserted beach.  Forty minutes further down the trail, we arrived at the beach of Pouso where we refueled with a delicious lunch at a restaurant floating on the water.  Then we completed the final leg of the hike, a 20 minute stretch up and over the last mountain peak to Lopes Mendes.  

Coming off the trail, the dense tropical foliage gives way to a vast stretch of white sand that seems to go on forever.  The beach has escaped modern development and remains in it's natural state.  So if you didn't bring water or pack lunch, you're in trouble.  We found a spot in the shade and relaxed for a few hours before hiking back to Pouso and catching a water taxi back to the main village of Abraão.

We did a little shopping in town before having to say good-bye to Ilha Grande :( and jumping on a boat back to the mainland.  Our driver was waiting for us when we got off the ferry and drove us the two hours north to Rio where we got our first view of Christ the Redeemer spotlit and sitting high above the city.  We're like little kids in a candy store... we're feeling the energy of being here and can't wait to get out and explore!  Five fun days in Rio ahead!!

360 Degrees of Ilha Grande

Tuesday, April 12, 2016

Another early morning... Not going to lie, I didn't sleep last night.  I kept thinking there have to be snakes on this island and that they could easily fit through the space underneath our door.  It's not looking good for sleeping outside in the mountains of Peru.  (I just told Brittany this now as I'm writing and she laughed saying she knew something was up because I was literally on top of her, crowding her side of the bed when we woke up this morning... oops, lol).

We booked a boat tour circling the island with stops at five different beaches throughout the day.  There were ten other passengers and we had the best time getting a 360 degree view of Ilha Grande.  I'm pretty sure this island makes all the other islands of the world jealous.  When you couldn't believe it could get any prettier, it did.

We did everything from laying on the beach, swimming and jumping off the boat to climbing the cliff of rocks for better views (don't worry mom and dad, we didn't jump!) and playing paddle ball with a few of the locals captaining the various tour boats.  No reason to say anymore, I think the pictures say enough....

Later in the evening, once we were back in town, we checked out another highly recommended spot, Cafe do Mar, for another dinner al fresco on the beach.  The tables were scattered in the sand under the canopy of a huge tree and our table was nestled in between the tree's roots.  The ambience here is just unmatchable... We both are in agreement that Ilha Grande has to be one of the coolest places we've ever been.

"A Pirate's Life For Me"

Monday, April 11, 2016

We were sad to say goodbye to Buzios and Vila D'este, our wonderful hotel... But it's on to Ilha Grande.  Rennan, our driver, picked us up and drove us the four hours south along the Costa Verde to the town of Conceição de Jacareí, where we jumped on a water taxi to make the twenty minute trip east to the island.

Ilha Grande used to be a pirate hangout back in the heyday... the island's thick tropical jungles provided the perfect shelter for hiding their boats and then surprising European trading ships as they passed by.  It was also a hub for Brazil's slave trade, a leper colony and most recently used as a political prison.  Now it's one of the country's most popular destinations.  There are no cars on the island... Just eighty-six beautiful beaches and plenty of hiking trails and water taxis to connect them.

Upon arriving at the dock, we immediately felt like we were on the Pirates of the Caribbean ride at Disney World.  I was waiting to see Captain Jack Sparrow roaming through the village with his bottle of rum.  But then we realized this "ride" was real life.  We found our hotel, but the man at reception did not speak English so we couldn't ask him any questions we had about the island, booking a boat tour or the wifi password (why this post is late, lol).  It's such a helpless feeling, but you quickly remember it's your fault you can't communicate when you're in their country and can't speak their language.  After wondering around the village, we were able to find a man who spoke Spanish and we knew just enough to communicate with him and organize our next two and a half days on Ilha Grande.

Racing against the sunset, we headed off on a hike to Cachoeira da Feiticeira, a waterfall nestled in the tropical foliage high above the coastline and about an hour west of the main village.  It was a steep, but enjoyable journey with a picturesque and peaceful reward.

Now I feel like I'm on the set of Lost... I keep waiting for something, like the Smoke Monster, to jump out of the jungle at me.  As we were in the thick of it, we heard this horrifying screeching... It sounded like some kind of animal beast was being attacked and we started to get a little nervous.  Ok, a lot nervous.  Is this Lost???  Later we found out it's the wild monkeys that live on the island, but both of us were relieved when we finally made it to the beach and were no longer by ourselves in the middle of the jungle.  We hopped on a water taxi and enjoyed another view of this beautiful island from the sea.

For dinner we headed down the beach to Lua e Mar, where the Brazilian speciality, Moqueca, is known to be one of the best in Rio de Janeiro state.  Brittany and I enjoyed a very romantic candlelit dinner al fresco on the beach and of course, tried the famous dish.  The entire meal was delicious, but we might have ruined the ambience when I looked down and saw a gigantic crab coming for my bare toes.  There might have been a few screams and it was feet up for the rest of the meal.  Thank goodness we survived all the wildlife today... We're pretty much lucky to be alive and still have all ten toes ;)

A Foodie Inspired, Lazy Sunday in Buzios

Sunday, April 10, 2016

Brittany and I decided to throw it back to the sleepy fisherman village days with a lazy Sunday in Buzios.  After a late start and a relaxing morning that included breakfast on the hotel patio overlooking the harbor, we headed over to João Fernandes Beach.  We decided to walk the 2 km to keep active in preparation for the upcoming Inca Trail hike (I know, I know... that's not going to do much in terms of preparing us, but given that we're both physically active and are still out of breath going up and down the stairs to and from our hotel, I'm a little worried.)

Anyway, we rented chairs and an umbrella and relaxed on the beach all day.  The people watching was phenomenal and the spirit of Brazil is contagious.  Street vendors sell everything from ice cream bars, BBQ shrimp on skewers and pizza to bikinis, sneakers and we even saw a guy with plastic toy bugs... like really?!?  Who the heck buys that?  I guess someone has to or he still wouldn't be walking around selling them.  We said "No, thank you" in Portuguese to the vendor trying to sell us Brazilian nuts and he responds with, "ahh, Non-Brazilian" and just walks away... so I guess we're not saying it right, lol. 

We tried the Acai the vendor brought via boat to the beach and it was delicious!  As the day wound down, we packed up and walked over the hill to check out three more beaches.  We now have closed the loop and saw almost all of the 23 beaches the peninsula boasts about.  

Back at our hotel, we lounged in the infinity pool and watched the sun set one last time over Buzios.  It's just so pretty... the pictures don't do it justice.  We had another fabulous seafood dinner of calamari, octopus and fresh fish and ended the night with a little Italian, our favorite, gelato!  

Beach Boppin' Around Buzios

Saturday, April 9, 2016

Even though we went to bed early, we didn't necessarily get to catch up on sleep.  We were up by 7am to hit our hotel's Brazilian style breakfast spread before our car rental was delivered.  Well not so much car... more like a buggy convertible.  It wasn't the easiest thing to drive, but we figured it out and off we went to explore Buzios.

We hit nine more of the peninsula's beaches, each one having its own distinct culture and character.  We soaked it all in... and lots of rays!!  We did get lost a few times, but you're never really lost when you're sightseeing and it allowed us to see Buzios off the beaten path.

As we were cruising along, all of the sudden the buggy wouldn't allow me to switch gears and the engine slowly died off.  We were sure we had run out of gas because the gage was broken.  Luckily, according to the map if our navigational skills were correct, there was a gas station just down the road.  We got on either side of the buggy and started pushing.  After ~500 meters, we spotted the gas station sign and breathed a sign of relief.  The attendant ran over to help us and popped off the cap to refill, but the tank was still filled with gas.  Three other men came over and all the sudden everyone was speaking Portuguese, so Britt and I had no idea what they were saying or what was going on.  After ten minutes, they finally got it running and we just kept saying "obrigado" (thank you), because that's one of only two words we know, lol.  We did have them take a selfie with us before we drove off :)

With time for one more stop before the sun set, we headed to Praia Brava, which we were told has a good "happy hour" scene.  The beach is at the bottom of a steep hill with bars built into the side of the cliff overlooking the ocean.  The Kygo beats were pumping and we were definitely feeling the South Beach vibe as we relaxed with a bottle of bubbly.

After dinner in town, we headed to a popular lounge featuring a live band and Samba show.  Then we checked out one of the hottest nightclubs in Buzios... Privilege.  Unlike any club we had ever been to, you get a "credit card" when you come in, which you use to buy drinks.  When leaving, you have to pay the balance before you're allowed to leave... Very smart Brazil.  That's one way to rack up a huge tab!  You know you're mingling with the locals when no one speaks English and it's almost impossible to communicate, but we enjoyed people-watching and experiencing the Buzios nightlife scene.

Beaches, Boats, Buzios... Welcome to Brazil

Friday, April 8, 2016

So despite Britt and I both having plenty of room to spread out due to each of us having an entire row to ourselves.. sleep was not in the cards.  There were too many distractions (personal media center with movies and TV shows, dinner with wine, dessert with more wine and breakfast) and we both have a fear of missing out!  Especially when it comes to the wine.  At least the adrenaline kicked in and we weren't that tired when we touched down in Rio.

Coming out of customs, we felt pretty badass seeing one of the drivers holding a sign with our names... I know, not that special but it's the little things in life :)  We drove right into the heart of Rio's rush hour, with scooters whizzing by us on either side making their own lanes in between cars.  I was really thankful we had decided to hire the private driver and I wasn't the one behind the wheel.

After a scenic but uneventful three hour ride, we arrived in Buzios... a peninsula with 23 beaches made famous back in the 1960's after Brigitte Bardot decided to holiday here.  At the time, it was just a sleepy fishing village, but after her stay, it transformed almost overnight into a hot-spot vacation destination.

We checked into our adorable hotel and then headed down to the pier for a boat tour around the peninsula.  We were the only English speaking people on the boat and it's pretty obvious walking the cobblestone streets that we are the only Americans in town for the weekend... which means we picked the perfect destination!  We thought we were blending in just fine until the outgoing photographer from Argentina turned the camera around for a selfie with the two of us kissing him on each cheek and the entire boat started hooping, hollering and clapping, lol.  So much for the gringas blending in.

After visiting three of the island's beaches and taking a swim off the side of the boat, we docked and headed back to the hotel.  We enjoyed our first caipirinhas of the trip as we watched the sun set over the water from our hotel deck on a cliff overlooking the bay.  Then we headed out for dinner in search of seafood, which is a must eat here and there's no question as to whether or not we found it.  We might have splurged a bit on the seafood platter for two, but it was well worth it.

Even though we had used our Deet to ward off Zika infected mosquitos during the day, we decided our "bug-be-gone" bracelets were enough for the evening.  Turns out we were wrong.  Both of us got bit incessantly and I'm pretty sure we now have the Zika virus.  Just kidding... but it's Deet all day, every day from here on out.  See you later bugs.

We decided to make it an early night since we were both exhausted from traveling.  There are plenty more fun ones ahead... 18 to be exact!!